Vol. 3
Greetings from finally sunny Los Angeles. Let’s get into it.
From Where I Sat
Jilli (Koreatown): The team behind Korean fried chicken spot Chimmelier has opened what they call a modern sool jib, which roughly translates to “drinking establishment” (sign me up!) in the space of their former upscale restaurant, Kinn. The environment is stark and lacks frills, however the dim lighting and 2000’s hip-hop playlist lend the space some personality, along with friendly and attentive staff. The short beverage menu features Beer, “Korean”, and Wine, but it’s a nice selection and wine is wonderfully priced at mostly $40 per bottle (rare to see in LA these days). If you’re dining with more than two people, share the house made Honey Butter Chips and Tuna Dip (add trout roe, always). If it’s just you and one other, focus on the larger items. The Chimmelier KFC offers a few sauces, which you can--and should--mix-and-match. Double fried and perfectly crunchy, do not skip this. Other than the fried chicken, the Rigatoni alla Kimchi Vodka was the star of the evening. The kimchi wasn’t overwhelming but added a nice spiciness to the sauce, along with a massive serving of creamy burrata and chewy bacon pieces to accompany the chubby noodles. While tasty, the Shrimp Toast erred on the greasy side. Upon finishing our meal, the owner Kevin gifted us with jelly hangover sticks that I’m not sure worked but were greatly appreciated. I will absolutely be returning to this busy neighborhood spot, with an obligatory stop at Frank n Hank around the corner before walking home.
Poltergeist (Echo Park): Located inside arcade bar Button Mash (a great stop before a Dodger game, btw), Poltergeist has the chaotic energy of that eccentric and rebellious musician or line cook you briefly dated for the thrills but he was absolutely out of his mind. This was one of the wildest culinary rides I’ve ever been on, both in presentation and in flavors. If you don’t have an adventurous spirit or palate, this might not be the place for you. But if you’re interested in an atypical experience that isn’t perfect but will keep you guessing, make that reservation. The theme of the menu is, somehow, BASIL. As if there was a fire sale at the warehouse, they bought all of it, and were forced to include it in almost every dish. Some highlights below:
-Thai Cesar Salad - delicious and a must order, if not for the visual alone (see above photo).
-Honey Walnut Prawns - fried whole topped with Kewpie and basil, however the lone candied walnut and horchata panna cotta felt out of place and unnecessary.
-Orange Curry Bucatino - a single, yard-plus long noodle made from marigold (a first for me) that was not entirely unpleasant but the texture threw me for a loop, however the persimmon curry that enveloped it was rich and deeply flavored.
-Masa Fried Dorade - despite balancing a whole fish precariously atop a tiny bowl of, what else, basil, it wound up being one of our favorite dishes. We as a society are not frying enough items in masa batter (aside from the wings at Homage Brewing), as it yields a fluffy, crispy golden crust that smells of fresh tortillas when cracked into. The perfectly cooked Dorade was accompanied by an entire separate dish of mussels escabeche, which felt disjointed but delicious nonetheless.
-Panang Lamb Neck - falling off the bone tender, served with saffron bao and a gorgeous display of pickles.
The desserts you can skip. Overall, the flavors, techniques, and eccentricity made this a memorable meal, however most dishes would benefit from some editing.
Dunsmoor (Glassell Park): After leaving (also delicious) Hatchet Hall, Chef Brian Dunsmoor opened up a wood-fired haven on the east side. Two friends and I said “send it” and ordered almost the entire menu, which is both a power move and a costly one. However, if you’re able to restrain yourself (or your unruly friends), you can still have an amazing meal here without spending $200 a pop--especially if you don’t consume multiple bottles from their extensive wine list. Upon entering, you are hit with a warm wall of scent that I can only describe as oud and sweet char, and your eyes are drawn to the glowing flames of the hearth underneath an arsenal of cast iron cookware.
Some highlights include the Baby Albacore with a ginger relish and crispy shallots, Kobe Beef Tartare with my favorite tuber, sunchokes, and the Mushroom-Crusted Pork Chop, among the best I’ve ever eaten (a cut that’s easy to overcook). Edna’s Sour Milk Cornbread is a must-order. Did we also get the Bluefin Tuna, Chopped Chicken Liver, Pickled Mussels, and bone-in Ribeye with bone marrow? I’ll never tell ;) Just kidding, we did, and they were also stellar. Aside from the large meats, the portions are relatively small but the quality and technique put into them are excellent. Go for a celebration with a larger group so you can try more, or sit at the adjoining wine bar for a concise but still delicious menu.
In My Kitchen
In an effort to eat less meat and because I am just so tired of chicken, tofu has been heavy in the home recipe rotation. Press, pat dry (for the love of god please use a clean kitchen towel instead of wasting paper towels), cube, then toss in a bit of cornstarch before pan searing for a little more variety and a crispy crust. Coconut Caramel Braised Tofu and Warm Tofu with Spicy Garlic Sauce have been hits, although I double the sauce in both recipes (always) and will use silken/soft tofu for the latter next time. I’ve also been partial to topping salads (and more) with a nut & seed mix for some added crunch, usually chopped pistachios, sesame and poppy seeds.
On My Radar
If I can muster up the will to venture to Pasadena, Bar Chelou has been on my list for a long time, and is run by the same chef of an old but now closed favorite of mine, Bar Restaurant. Also on the east side, I’ve been itching to get back to Amiga Amore, where I tried last May and I’ve been thinking about their Elote Agnolotti ever since. While I don’t have plans to visit NYC anytime soon, I’m eyeing Hellbender Nighttime Cafe (and adding that jaguar window box to my house inspo list).
As we crawl slowly toward spring, I hope you enjoy the remaining peak of citrus season in California as much as possible. Hit your local farmers market and bring home blood oranges, tangerines, kumquats, and the like before they disappear til next January. Catch you in spring!
xo