Vol. 5
I am severely delayed here, with no excuse other than “I’m sorry for my brain.” SO... We’re keeping it local for this edition - strictly Los Angeles eats.
From Where I Sat
Del Mar Ostioneria (Mid-City) - Last year, a mariscos fairy godmother granted my multi-year wish of not having to trek to East LA to find decent ceviche. The khaki-colored food truck lives in a parking lot that houses not one but two strip-mall wedding chapels, just south of All Seasons Brewing. The gentlemen behind the windows are cranking out restaurant-quality aguachiles, tacos, and ceviches, using incredibly fresh and high quality ingredients. Tacos are delivered in thick, handmade blue corn tortillas, my favorite includes crispy shrimp as large as a golf ball coated in a tangy but not-too-sweet tamarind sauce. Keep in mind that when they list something as spicy, they mean it. The Tostada Special with crab was among the spiciest things I’ve ever consumed in my life, but it was delicious. Sadly, I will advise you to restrain yourself as you order (or come with more people to share) as the portions are generous, and the prices can add up quickly. Seating is plentiful under sturdy umbrellas to keep the summer sun at bay. I come here at least once a month and I hope you will too.
Lasita Rotisserie & Natural Wine (Chinatown) - I’d been to Lasita once during prime-time pandemmy when we had to order at the window and sit outside on picnic tables, but the fully flushed out restaurant has come a long way from that. Previously known as Lasa, Lasita is the Filipino restaurant of my dreams. Funky hip hop, funkier wines, and great vibes all around, not to mention the incredible dishes coming out of their kitchen. The stars of the show are the two items from the rotisserie section of the menu, the Pork Belly Lechon and Chicken Inasal. Truly the crispiest lechon I’ve ever eaten, with a skin that had a hard crack like a sugar coating, while remaining tender and flavor-packed on the inside. As for the sides and starters, you will never forgive yourself (nor will I) if you don’t order the Chicken Fat Rice--you may need two--and the Sizzlin’ Pork Belly Sisig, because you can never order enough pork. The “Vedge” salad is a crisp and refreshing addition, and don’t skip whatever seasonal Pancit Canton they’re serving. Order as many of their sauces as your heart desires, and the desserts are a real tribute to classic Filipino desserts. Reservations strongly recommended, and bring as many people as you can so you can try a bit of everything.
Loreto (Frogtown) - The night version of their daytime restaurant Mariscos Za Za Zá, Loreto is a bit sexy, a bit of a scene, and located in a corner of LA that’s had a real glow-up in recent years (see also: gentrification). Many of the cocktails are pre-batched, which I don’t love, but most were tasty nonetheless. We ordered a hell of a lot for four people, but the highlights were:
Aguachile Negro - spicy and deeply flavorful, one of the group favorites.
Rhubarb Ceviche - a peak late spring ingredient and a stellar choice to accompany raw fish.
Bang Bang Tostada - we love a fried, spicy shrimp item and this tostada doesn't disappoint.
Callo Brochetas - tiny baby grilled scallops on a skewer, what more could you want.
“Arroz” Tumbado - a glossy, piquant orzo pasta dish that plays on Arroz a la tumbada, a Mexican rice and seafood dish, that included a fried soft shell crab. This was incredible, but sadly it looks like they no longer have this on their summer menu.
Branzino Zarandeado - a whole ass fish that you should absolutely order. Comes with all the fixin’s and is prepared so it’s easy to eat.
Come here when you feel like having a seafood-laden adult’s night out.
Honorable Mentions:
MidEast Tacos (Silverlake) - If there’s anyone who can fill the shoes of the fantastic but shuttered Mh Zh, it’s Armenian-American chef Armen Martirosyan, owner of beloved Mini Kabob in Glendale. The menu is simple but well-executed, the salsas are flavorful and spicy, and you really don’t want to miss the unique falafel taco. The steak quesadilla is a personal favorite, with massive, juicy chunks of tender steak that justify the $17 price tag. A really great option for delivery/takeout as well.
Awan (Larchmont) - After dinner at Tonchin, I followed the crowd across the street to the most mysterious ice cream shop I’ve ever seen. A mix between an expensive designer store and an ancient cave dwelling, a single staff member is scooping ‘creams like it’s a Michelin-star restaurant. Saffron Pistachio Date Rosewater is an excellent combo with Balinese Vanilla Bean, which gets topped with freshly shaved piloncillo. Come here when you’re looking for incredibly delicious ice cream if you’re willing to pay a premium and maybe spot a celebrity (I did see Violet Affleck there, lol).
In My Kitchen
While stone fruit hasn’t quite hit its peak yet, it is absolutely time for strawberries and cherries to shine. Again, here I am begging you to go to your local farmers market, this time for magnificent, early summer fruit. Also, it’s time to bust out that grill! In this SoCal climate, I’m not sure why I wait until the summer to begin using my outdoor grill, and every summer I chastise myself for foregoing the grill for ¾ of the year. This week l tried out Sara Tane’s Grilled Zucchini with Whole Lemon Vinaigrette, and it was perfect. Honestly just throw whatever you can on that grill because the light kiss of char will improve anything.
On My Radar
Dining al fresco - the sun is out later, the days are hot, and balmy summer nights are here (my favorite). All this might even convince me to drag myself out to the west side, where I’ve had my eyes on Si! Mon and Le Great Outdoor. Hot temps make me yearn for extra-cold drinks, and there’s no place quite like Dante in Beverly Hills for a martini with a spectacular view, either off the balcony or up on the ceiling.
The Fourth of July is just days away, and while the current political climate isn’t exactly something I’d celebrate (yikes!), the 4th has always meant food & fun with my people. Sadly Covid finally got me after four years of evasion, so this year I’ll be grilling hot dogs while trapped at home. Stay safe from fireworks, heartburn and hangovers while you enjoy all the summertime treats to come!
xo
It's a sign! Need to go back to Lasita and have their pork belly lechon, which might have been the best thing I ate in 2021. What a time.