GREETINGS from the flaming hellscape of despair that is the United States, two days post-election. I’d written the bulk of this post weeks ago, when I was blissfully still capable of some semblance of joy. Am I being dramatic? Always. Nevertheless, she persisted. It’s hard to see past the devastation, rage, and bleakness that may eventually subside (fingers crossed), but until then, I hope this provides a bit of an escape. Hug your pets, cry with your friends, scream into the void, smoke a lil’ Ben Affleck cig. Do whatever you need to get through this time, and be kind to others if you can (except for those who voted against the rights of their fellow Americans, you can aggressively hiss at them).
From Where I Sat
Belle’s (Los Alamos, CA) - I haven’t been anywhere that felt like more of a “one-horse town” than Los Alamos. Spanning all of four blocks on one main street, you could drive right through and not even notice it. But that would be a bummer for you, as Los Alamos is home to not only good vibes and great wine, but to Belle’s, a French-inspired bistro that's become a darling of the media and even boasts a Michelin star. With an ever-changing menu based on the seasons (this will be a theme here), there are French classics like chicken liver mousse (my girl), escargot drowning in parsley butter, and steak tartare.
California produce like local farm lettuces, melons, and figs make appearances alongside Santa Barbara seafood and Baja shrimp, steering the menu away from being strictly French, and therefore more exciting and less stuffy. I am lucky enough to know the GM from working together at Gramercy Tavern, and Mike set up an incredible lunch for a group of us celebrating a birthday (complete with customized menus). The restaurant is small with a lovely, large back patio that is rustic enough to fit in in Los Alamos, but doesn’t make you feel out of place for not donning dusty cowboy boots. You’ll be glad that you can get everywhere on foot in this tiny town as the wine list is extensive and includes beers, ciders, etc. After dinner, mosey on over to my favorite antique store turned dive bar, Los Alamos Depot Bar.
Bar Le Côte (Los Olivos, CA) - Hungover from really getting after it at aforementioned Depot Bar, I was not prepared for the intensity of feelings that Bar Le Côte would elicit as I sat down for lunch. A sister restaurant to Belle’s, GM friend Mike made the reservation for me and we were treated like family/royalty, which I did not expect. Surrounded by joyful green walls and light-toned wood, there is something about the vibe at BLC that I can’t quite put my finger on but I know could never be replicated in a larger city, which I was both grateful for and frustrated by (selfishly).
The open kitchen is small and a joy to watch, and the staff was among the friendliest without being annoying I’ve ever encountered, it was like every person there just wanted you to enjoy the amazing food and have a good time. As a seafood-first restaurant, the menu will evolve with the abundance of the ocean. My only complaint about dining there was that we couldn’t order more. Don’t skip the raw scallops, whatever form they’re in, or the simple salad because it’s stellar. A lovely wine list reflects the European and Californian influences. Also, the chef is handsome (heehee).
Aperitivo (Santa Barbara, CA) - I stumbled upon Aperitivo earlier this summer while shoving a treat from Oat Bakery in my mouth on the sidewalk. A man walked toward an unassuming door nearby, carrying a large loaf of imported mortadella on his shoulder (I spotted the pistachios a mile away). I stopped him with “Excuse me sir, but I need to know what’s going on here” while pointing at the mort. Turns out this was Brian, chef and co-owner of the restaurant, getting ready for the day. I vowed to return, and I made good on that promise during an anniversary trip to SB in September. There are no reservations so you’ll likely have to go grab a drink nearby and wait, and it will be worth it. There are less than 10 items on the menu, which changes rapidly with the availability of top-tier ingredients and due to the fact that there isn’t really a proper kitchen. Seriously, it’s just a small corner carved out at the end of the bar where two people cook their hearts out over a couple of induction burners and a fridge.
To say what comes out of that “kitchen” is impressive would be an understatement. Seemingly basic but outstanding products are treated with such skill and care that they’re transformed to something different entirely, while still being recognizable and true to their forms. While, tragically, there was no mortadella on the menu this time, a prosciutto, melon and burrata dish was so devastatingly delicious in it’s simplicity that I had to flag down the hostess (who is a Belle’s alumn and a new friend!) to ask “what the fuck are they up to in that kitchen?!?” She understood my question, saying that it really is all about the quality of the ingredients. We’ve all heard that spiel a million times in a restaurant, and this was one of the few times I’ve actually believed it. There will be a crudo, some seasonal vegetables, and a couple of pastas on the menu. Order as much as you can as it will all be fantastic. Don’t forget to finish with an affogato.
Honorable Mention:
Third Window Brewing (Santa Barbara, CA) - These people are doing some crazy things to very simple food, specifically their insane smashed wagyu cheeseburgers and their ranch oak-smoked chicken wings (get the Alabama white sauce). A very chill, large central patio with open seating is surrounded by a few other wine and coffee shops to peruse.
The Pickle Room (Santa Barbara, CA) - A killer, dimly lit industry dive bar that used to be a restaurant called “Jimmy’s Oriental Gardens” (yikes!), which retains the original decor and cozy vibes. Sit at the bar if you can and chat with the locals and no-nonsense, wonderfully gruff bartender (he’s cool, I promise).
In My Kitchen
Eggplant season is roughly July through October, and I’ve been making various versions of eggplant involtini a lot. It’s amazing with a layer of prosciutto tucked in each eggplant slice, and can be made heartier by swapping the filling for sautéed Italian sausage (spicy!), shredded mozz and loads of fresh basil. For vegetarians, it would be good with sautéed spinach mixed into the ricotta (squeeze all the water out first though).
On My Radar
SURVIVING THE NEXT FOUR YEARS TWO MONTHS. Kidding, but also not. You can find me disassociating over a martini somewhere in Southern California, as I’ll be spending weekends in Joshua Tree, LA, and then San Diego, trying to remain civil with certain family members at Thanksgiving. I am fortunate enough to be traveling to Paris in mid-December, do you think they’ll let me stay forever?
xo